Achei um tópico no Audi-Sport.net de um cara descrevendo o que ele fez no carro desde o começo, achei muito interessante. Vale a pena a leitura...
HTC disse:Okay, thought I'd post a few pics of day one of my turbo conversion. For the record my hands are killing me. Damn these cars with their fiddly turbos fitted in silly tight spaces.
Any ways, thought you might like to see proof of my spanner time.
The kit:
The working environment (looks sunny, but for the record its bloody cold and bloody cramped in there):
Old turbo removed (remember to remove the driveshaft, makes for a much easier job due to the added space):
Old vs New:
Manifold on:
And turbo:
Downpipe:
Oil and coolant lines connected (It took 30mins just to connect the oil feed I may have swore a couple of times) :
Most annoying part of the day had to be the cat. Basically I was going to use the cat from my milltek downpipe, but I messed up the cutting process. So now I have to fill this gap with something. I'm going to run a by-pass pipe for a few weeks until I can source a new cat. Always measure twice kids, it'll save you a couple of hundred quid :-(
I'll be back at it tomorrow to start on the TIP and other odds and sods. The TIP is going to be interesting, due to the close proximity of the gear change cables. Fingers crossed.
HTC disse:Day 2 pics.
Pretty productive day considering the freezing weather. Ordered a straight piece of 2.5" pipe, to fix my cat mess-up, which promptly arrived today.....thanks jetex for the good customer service.
Made a new inlet pipe. Chopped the bottom off an AGU silicone TIP and added an aluminium joining peice and larger 90° silicone bend. Had a small pipe welded into the joiner locally for the charcoal canister return connection.
Then made the boost pipe connection from the turbo to standard boost pipe. Pretty straight forward stuff.
Due to the revised mounting point of the lambda probe, I had to lengthen the wires. Also wrapped it in aluminiumised fabric to keep the heat away and ran it behind the exhaust heat sheild. Looks factory on the car.
Cut and fitted the cat-bypass. To reiterate, this is only temporary until I can source a new cat, but I need my car on the road.
Made up a new airbox lid. Its from an audi TT and uses a 3" MAF housing. Annoyingly you can't simply swap over the sensor as the AGU engine uses a 4 wire connector unlike the 5 wire later MAFs. Also the sensor itself is larger in diameter.
I cut out the housing and epoxyed part of the AGU sensor holder onto the housing making sure it was all centred correctly.
Further to this, the AGU has its ignition amp stage separate to the coils and mounted on the airbox lid for cooling. On later cars its incorporated into the coilpacks. This is the part that fail incidentally. I cut out the side of the box and fashioned a new mount, again out of epoxy, using the rubber gromet as a moulding peice. I'll fit this later with the injectors when its time for mapping. Turned out okay I think.
Almost done.
Only a few things to button up now. Still got to connect a few coolant pipes and bolt the gear cable holder to the box. I'm a bit concerned about that as its pressing on the bottom of the TIP. Hopefully it won't squash it and cause a restriction.
So far its looking fairly factory from the top, which was my aim. Trial fitted all the engine covers and they go on fine.
Only obvious sign of something different is the coolant feed pipe at the back of the engine bay. IMO the JBS pipe is a bit too long. I may get a new one made up, but thats just me.
Just got to fill it up with new fluids and start it up tomorrow, fingers crossed it will start okay and not leak anything.
HTC disse:Quick update on proceedings (been busy at work lately so not a great deal achieved).
I didn't want to throw away my milltek cat, so I decided to faff around with it a bit. I've chopped off the ends that place the fitment at an angle. I'm fashioning some new straight end cones out of a piece of 1.5mm 304 grade stainless steel sheet. Going to then have some straight pipe welded to that.
Here's the look I'm heading for. Obviously cone needs to still be chopped to open the end out for the straight pipe. I think the cone turned out okay considering my bending tools consisted of a soft faced mallet, a couple of peices of wood on my garage floor and my knee.
I've fixed the bottom of my TIP that was being squashed by the gear cables. The silicone bend has been replaced with a larger one that made it possible to cut it closer to the turbo. Cables clear just fine and I'm glad I now don't have to fabricate a spacer to move them.
Initial squashed pipe:
Updated pipe:
Also, I've had a few water leaks from the coolant feed pipe. The banjo required new larger and tighter fitting washers, but then I found that the water line itself was leaking. It has a pin hole where the flexible section is welded to the rigid part. JBS said they will replace this no problem.
I've still got to decide on how I'm going to sort out my cat fitment. I'm now thinking about 3 bolt flanges where the downpipe connects to the cat pipe.
Has anyone had experience with V-band clamps? Are they any good? I assume they don't use gaskets?
I'll update further when I have more info, but I'm off to Oman on business as of Monday 14th, for a few weeks, so they may not be for a while.
HTC disse:Quick update. I've been working abroad of late so the car has taken a back seat. Been back at home this this week so the car came out of the garage.....though the weather has been getting on my nerves a bit.
Anyways, I've replaced a coolant return line that was leaking a tiny amount, but enough to make a bit of a mess down the back of the engine. JBS have redesigned the piece so there should be no more trouble.
I've also tackled my catylitic convertor issue. The chopped up Milltek item from the old downpipe has now been welded up. I'm quite chuffed as it turned out as planned and I saved some cash. Also removed the second half of the downpipe and had a 3 bolt flange to the end of it. The thing has been blowing through its slip joint. The flange should sort that problem out.
Going to fit it all back on tomorrow with a Jetex exhaust I picked up for a VERY good price.
HTC disse:Right, back to it.
Been under the car again to sort the exhaust out. Bolted up the revised downpipe and cat, which fitted just perfect.
Centre section and mount. Found it easier to just remove the whole thing.
Then onto the back box. I bought a Jetex cat back system designed for a MK4 Golf GTI, so I knew the rear valance would need cutting. I went for a Golf system as I think A3 systems sit a bit too low. I didn't want the discreet tailpipes as I've hear they can drone a bit.
Before cutting
After some hacking with the angle grinder
With crash bar and some paint
Pretty straight forward stuff. Also trimmed the lower plastic part of the bumper to fit. Here are the finished pics.
Looks okay I think. Really chuffed how quiet it is as well. I'm expecting the noise to increase very slightly as I've found it to be the case in the past.
I'll upload a vid of the sound in a while.
HTC disse:Just trial fitted the 3" MAF I will be using. Cut some silicone reducers to size. Nothing too taxing.
FINALLY THE CAR IS READY FOR MAPPING!! About time
I have a few more things to add in the handling department now. The car feelings really loose at the moment. I suspect alot of that is down to the front wishbones which have dead poly bushes and the steering rack that has some play in it also. I will be removing the poly bushes and replacing them with Audi TT/S3 solid rubber mounts.
Picked up a set of Eibach ARBs as well after hearing how my Prawn recommends them. There is way too much understeer at the moment, so adding a rear bar will improve the diagonal weight transfer keeping the front wheels more enenly balanced......thats the plan anyway.
For you A3 guys, if removing the subframe you can fit TT/S3 subframe mounts which are tougher than A3 items. They are a two peice design and have much more metal in them. Every little bit helps.
HTC disse:The rack came from Simch on here. He had a brand new MK4 golf / octavia item sitting in his garage. So it'll be the same as an A3 rack with regards to ratio. I did think about an S3 rack, but this one popped up at a good price and previously nobody had one in stock except for Audi, and I wasn't going to pay their prices.
Going to fit it today. Got the subframe out.
Powerflex bushes weren't looking too clever. Gonna bin these.
Hopefully it will be much more fun now.
HTC disse:Intercooler is a little bit of an experiment. I wanted low lag short pipe work and again a stealthy approach. It's a Boost Factory uprated side mount. I've seen some good temp logs for this IC, so went for the plunge.
Modified the original scoop:
If this doesn't work out, I'll try a Seatsport FMIC:
HTC disse:Update:
I have my car back now. Picked it up in Monday. Thought I'd drive it about for a few days before posting results. Anyways, here's the dyno:
It made good power. Steve at JBS said he would get it over 300bhp, so mission accomplished there. I was initially a little disapointed at the torque value as I've seen higher. Spoke to Steve who explained torque is pegged at the value in the dyno to protect the rods. The turbo has more in it. If I want to fit new rods, he can add more.
On the road the car is very different to how is was with the K03s. Power builds very smoothly rather than a kick in the back at low revs. I've not had a chance to log fuel and ignition yet, but it's very responsive off boost also. My car is cable throttle, but he has done something different to the previous mapper in that area. Driving in traffic feels easier now. I used to get a small jolt coming off the throttle when crawling, this has disapeared.
As for traction, I can only talk of dry conditions so far. Basically it hooks up fine. 1st gear is over in a blink, 2nd gear is a bit of an animal but essentially fine and manegable. The way the boost builds and the revs it occurs allows the tyres to grip and off you go. If you are silly it will spin, but I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get away. Wet weather....well we'll see. Overall its easier to drive than my k03s was away from a standstill. Bonus!
Another aspect I enjoy is the transient boost in 5th at around 80mph (on a private road). Overtaking is truely effortless now. Boost increases so quickly (apparently a characteristic of roller bearings). Net result is a nice shove in the back and a quick increase in speed. Max boost seems to be about 22psi on my gauge.
One thing I spotted which I didn't expect is a slightly lumpy idle. Its nothing to write home about, but listening to the exhaust if standing behind the car you can hear the odd miss. I've contacted JBS about this. It may be a characteristic of the injectors or plugs I'm running. Not sure yet.
Pricewise I haven't gone through all my recepts, but a quick run through in my head puts the total at around £2300. I think you'll agree that this is significantly less than what you can pay for a similar setup. My initial goal was to reach 300bhp whilst keeping costs down. I think I've achieved that.
I won't brag about some of the expensive machinery I've managed to keep up with, but I just want to get across the sentiment that my car is a fast neat little package now, and I'm very happy with it.
So, thanks to me for fitting the kit :laugh: and JBS for the software.
HTC disse:Bought a Racelogic traction control kit for those days when it rains
I'll post pics of the fitting process if I can and report back on it's performance.
HTC disse:The traction control has now been fitted and all I can say is WOW!!!! It really does what it says on the tin. I'm very impressed with it. Calibration was a simple process of finding a straight piece of road with a 180° SLOW bend onto another straight. Took 5 minutes.
Now I can put my foot down and it grips in all gears.....very satisfying as the car launches off. I'm still playing with the settings as you can adjust minimum speed threshold, slip override for straights, launch settings etc.
There are 4 sequential cut sequences with increasing severities of fuel cut depending on the amount of slip detected. Very smooth and progressive.
Launch control sounds awesome with all the pops etc.
I can't wait for it to rain to see how it is in damp conditions. Days of spinning the wheels in the lower gears should be gone.
Rich, so far my ABS sensors are performing fine. I did some real time logging and there were no spikes in the data or unwanted missfires at low speeds. Fingers crossed I won't have the same issues you experienced. All wheel speed values were identical on the graph.
Here are some fitting pics for those who like to see things in bits.
Extending wires for injector cuts in the drip tray:
Route into cabin + boost gauge vacuum pipe:
Finished injector cuts. Used plugs so I can revert to standard if required. Also sealed with silicone to stop water ingress (not pictured):
Location of ABS wiring:
ABS connections for wheel speed input:
Finished connections all taped up:
Diagnostics/programming/logging port with test light in glove box:
Brain fitted next to fuse box:
Location of selector switch. Temporary mounting solution. I'll change this when I think of something better:
HTC disse:Been under my car again today to fit some new engine mounts. The INA street density items look just like OEM mounts but with harder rubber (80 durometer I believe)
Not the most exciting things to look but they do the job. The engine is held much better with minimal vibration felt in the car. I didn't fancy a set of vibra-technics mounts for this reason.
My old mounts must have been trashed as gear changes feel much better now.
Also had a good look around whilst under the car and noticed a bolt missing from the bottom of the turbo to downpipe........interesting.
I check the other bolts and found some of them to be loose, so replaced the missing one and tightened the others.
I was previously getting a whistling sound under high boost which seems to have gone now. Some air must have been escaping at WOT.
I was also getting an error code 00561 adaption not reached (add) indicating slightly weak mixture at idle. I found a split hose from the fuel tank breather to charcoal cannister in the engine bay. Since fitting a new pipe, I haven't seen the 00561 error code return.
So today I am a happy camper.
Also ran some logs and found the my intercooler isn't really up to the job for extended WOT. I'll sort this out as and when.
HTC disse:I little update on my car. I had a bit of a scare a GTI international on the strip. My car suddenly started overboosting. At one point it went right off the scale, probably hit about 28-30psi!! So not good.
Turns out it was a faulty N75 valve not allowing enough pressure to be diverted away from the wastegate actuator. I've swapped for a different one and boost is back to normal.
Talking to folk I was very lucky not to explode my engine. With that in mind (and a bigger turbo in the planning), I've decided to uprate the engine internals. I'll be sticking with the standard bore, but replacing the rods and valve gear. Should be able to rev 1000rpm higher in confidence with this lot. Also grabbed some larger injectors and a better fuel pump in light of a larger turbo if/when I get it.
HTC disse:Little update. I've now added a Walbro fuel pump. Mounted it under the car rather than in the engine bay like some. I'm still trying to keep the bay as OEM as possible.
Also decided to buy a new turbo. My car still isn't boosting right. Most of the time it will be okay, but the odd time it will overboost as before. I've been though everything and the people I've spoken to all suggest boost creep or a cracked turbine housing. Whatever is up, its whistling above 22psi and I need to keep watching the boost gauge. Can't reliably boot it.
So in the search for a better unit I grabbed a TD05H-18G hybrid. It's a Blouch item sourced through Scooby Clinic. Has the stronger 14psi (1bar) actuator and a ported turbine housing to hopefully eliminate all boost creep.
It's a bolt on replacement for the subaru engine so the compressor and turbine housing are oriented differently to how I need them. So I decided to rotate the housings to suit the 1.8T (some people call it "clocking").
As it came:
18G vs K03
Oil and water fitting removed.
After removing a large circlip for the compressor housing, the clamp ring for the turbine housing and the actuator it was possible to slide off the housings and remove the CHRA.
No balancing is required if the CHRA is left untouched as I have done.
Turbo disassembled:
Subaru turbos have a pin inserted into the turbine housing that locates with a hole in the CHRA for correct orientation. Obviously I needed to remove this to re-orient for the 1.8T. Five minutes with the dremel was required to grind it flat.
View of the ported tubine inlet:
Then all that was required was to re-assemble.
Back together with housings pointing in the correct directions:
The turbo is now pretty much ready to go on but due to the modification I'll need to weld on a couple of bosses to bolt the actuator to (area circled in pic). Shouldn't be too difficult. Bought some aluminium offcuts off ebay for the job.
Not sure when I'll get stuck in fitting it. Going to do the engine work at the same time. I'm waiting on some machine shops to get back with prices on some head work. Mainly fitting the new valve guides. If anyone knows of a good place in the south, then let me know.
HTC disse:Won't be much to update on for the moment. I'm off to Saudi and Egypt for work for a short while. Also waiting for simch to get back to me about head work.
I did buy one of these boost controllers yesterday just in case I need it. If not, I'll sell it on.
